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Wine Region of the Month: Veneto

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Venezia, a city built into the sea, is like no other, haunted by the princes and poets of its noble past and by centuries of tourists. The cities of Padova, Vicenza, and Verona, originally frontier posts on the Roman trade route between Venezia and Genova, grew into Renaissance splendor and are marvels in their own right. In the 16th century, the region’s great architect Andrea Palladio worked throughout the area and his buildings are everywhere, in the cities and in the countryside. Nature exhibits its own marvels in the region, the spectacular Dolomite mountains in the north, the rolling Euganean hills in the south, vast Lake Garda, Italy’s largest lake, on the eastern border, and to the west, the Adriatic with its beaches and ports.

Today, Veneto is a thriving agricultural center, a lush land of vines, ranking third after Apulia and Sicily in wine volume but the first with classified DOC wines. There are three general areas of premium production: the western province of Verona in the hills between Lake Garda and the town of Soave, the central hills in the provinces of Vincenza, Padova, and Treviso, and the eastern plains of the Piave and Tagliamento river basins along the Adriatic coast northeast of Venezia.  Celebrations Wine Club specializes in this type of Italian wine club.

Verona is the leader in classified DOC wines and the site of Vinitaly, the largest wine trade fair in the world. A major part of the DOC wines in the region are Soave, Bardolino, and Valpolicella, a blend of Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara. When young, Valpolicella is a full, fruity red, but when the grapes are partly dried, they are made into Amarone, one of Italy’s most noble wines. Bardolino is made from the same grapes as Valpolicella but is a lighter version. Similar to Soave, Bianco di Custoza is another DOC white as is LessiniDurello, a steely dry wine, usually sparkling.

The central hills produce whites similar to Soave as well as Tocai, the Pinots, Merlot, and Cabernet. Prosecco, a dry to lightly sweet white, is produced in the area as is the renowned Venegazzu, both usually sparkling.

The eastern plains have been dominated by Merlot and Cabernet Franc for decades, but the local red Raboso and white Verduzzo still have admirers. Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon, and Chardonnay are also gaining ground.

There’s been a pretty poor start to this year’s season. The recession bites hard, the weather sucks and everyone’s walking around in their empty restaurants speaking doom and gloom.
Right?
Well, yes in some cases and no in others actually. So what are the bars and restaurants doing it right, doing?
It’s a core truth that you can’t sell food and drink to people when there are no people around to sell it to. But it is also true that you can overlook the audience living on your own doorstep. The catering industry is, or it should be anyway, as much about delivering a regular and trusted service to local customers as it is about attracting tourists and holidaymakers.
Price is a key issue for many. Which is why, it seems to me, the two extreme ends of the spectrum are doing pretty well so far this year. Upmarket never changes because there are always people for whom the words “double dip recession” mean nothing. And low end should be doing better than ever, with more people squeezed out of the middle bracket where food and drink out of the house are a luxury.
With the middle market struggling, cheap and cheerful can be the way to go. The onus here is on the word “cheap”, which has two connotations. One: poor quality. The other: doesn’t cost very much for what it is. In other words a bargain.
Everyone’s out for a bargain at the best of times. Right now the low cost end of the catering market should be experiencing a boom it hasn’t seen in years.
Providing catering to locals, cheap in the good sense has a double ramification. If you’re selling good cheap food and providing a friendly atmosphere in which to eat it, you create regulars. Regulars promote your business on your behalf – taking friends and family in to eat with you and enthusing about you to colleagues.
Clearly one of the key things you need to get right in order to supply cheap and cheerful catering is the right commercial catering supplies. And that doesn’t just mean food. The bigger your overheads in terms of bowls, plates, cups and cutlery, the more you have to put on the price of each cover to maintain your margins.
Now is a great time to shed the excess weight of your business, trim it back down to the basics of great food, cleanly presented, in an environment that makes people feel welcome. Everything else is just bells and whistles. So let’s stop making noise and start making some profit again. Streamline your menu. Adjust your suppliers. And create, and retain, an audience who’ll stick with you through thick and thin.
 Lauren Aspall has worked in the catering industry for more than 10 years. He writes regularly on all matters hospitality – from commercial catering supplies to menu promotions.